SC&C Black Friday-Cyber Monday Sale!

From 11/28 to 12/2 get Savings and Free swag on all SC&C NEW AND FEATURED products shown at the bottom our Homepage!

– Items and packages up to $4000 are 10% OFF and come with a Free orange or gray SC&C T-shirt.

Items or packages $4000 or more are 5% off and come with a Free SC&C Premium Rock-Tour T-shirt! 

Varishock Delrin Pivot ball Coil Overs!

Varishock Delrin Pivot-Ball Coil Over Technology – The Bar Has Been Raised !
Coil overs were originally designed for race cars, not street cars. So it`s no surprise that issues with noise, ride harshness, high maintenance and poor long term durability are often associated with street use and coil over conversion kits for our classic muscle cars. Varishock has taken a big step toward making them more street car friendly with their new grease able delrin pivot ball option.

How does the Varishock Delrin Pivot-Ball Mount compare to Urethane Bushings?
Even in a correctly preloaded urethane bushing eye, the urethane will
compress and expand as the shock resists suspension movement in either
direction. This deflection and pressure in the shock mount can actually
affect the vehicle’s shock valving requirements, as an additional variable
force is acting on the suspension. This makes attaining the optimal shock
valve settings even more difficult. VariShock delrin pivot-ball mounts eliminate
the bushing variable and help to make shock tuning more intuitive. Urethane bushings, especially ones that are not properly preloaded can also tend to pound out or cold flow over time, making the shock loose and noisy.

What about COM-8 Bearings? Spherical COM-8 bearings are much closer in performance to the VariShock pivot ball than any urethane or rubber bushing could ever hope to be. But one of the drawbacks to the COM-8 spherical bearing
is its small diameter bearing; only 0.781” compared to the VariShock
1.1”-diameter pivot ball. Their races are also much more narrow. The vehicle’s weight being focused on a smaller area accelerates wear. Even heavy-duty, Teflon®-lined COM-8 bearings, which offer excellent track performance, still suffer from a limited service life due to their purposely simple design. With no way to lubricate or tighten the bearing assembly,and with no way to seal out dirt or moisture the Teflon® races will eventually wear out. The eye then develops free play and becomes noisy during operation, requiring replacement. The VariShock pivot-ball will far outlast even the best COM-8 bearing.

At the heart of the Varishock delrin pivot ball mount assembly is a one-piece,
width-specific, stainless-steel pivot ball captured by low-friction polymer bearing races, which also function as wiper seals to keep dirt out of the
bearing. A threaded pivot-ball adjuster allows the assembly to be precisely set with zero free play and no stiction. This ideal setting can be maintained
throughout the lifespan of the assembly by simply removing the locking screw
and tightening the adjuster, if necessary. A grease zerk fitting is located along the side of the eye and in some installations, can be accessed without
removing the shock. As grease is injected through the zerk fitting,
spiral-pattern bearing-race channels evenly distribute grease around
the bearing, while also reducing the contact surface area further
reducing friction.

Varishocks delrin pivot ball option is currently available on the Chassisworks `64-`72 GM A body rear coil over conversion kit. https://scandc.com/new/node/721
They`ll be available very soon on all of Chassisworks gLink and torque arm rear suspension as well as their Street Machine and G Machine front subframes as well as their front coil over conversions.
They are also now available on our AFX-R whole car race package. https://scandc.com/new/node/1038

NEW Chassisworks Improved Geometry Billet-Aluminum Tall Spindle !

There’s a new option in the tall spindle market, and it’s got some awesome and unique features! The New Chassisworks Improved Geometry Billet Aluminum Tall Spindles are the ultimate evolution of the OE format. Their +1.5″ tall spindle format corrects the backward factory camber curves, and raises and stabilizes the low/unstable factory roll center, for a huge increase in cornering grip, reduced body roll, and improved predictability. Their matching billet aluminum steering arms relocate the outer tie rod ends to correct the factory bump steer. The 1st Gen F body steering arms are configured in the much coveted Z-28 fast ratio/high wheel clearance format.

Using extensive FEA analysis, their heat-treated aerospace aluminum and chrome moly steel construction make them roughly twice as strong as the stock iron spindles, but at about half the weight! The ball joint tapers feature stainless steel inserts for even more strength and durability. Both the spindles and steering arms are black hard anodized for good looks and corrosion protection.

Available in 0″ drop or 2″ drop versions, they are extremely versatile. The 0″ drop version makes them ideal for cars that want to dramatically improve handling and driveability, while retaining a classic resto stance. Plus, they can be run with OE type brakes and 15″ wheels. The 2″ drop version is perfect for show cars looking for a lower stance, or for cars running coil over, hybrid and air suspension conversion components.

Introducing SC&C StreetComp Brakes by Baer!

Today clients are pushing their cars harder than ever before and they`re all looking for an edge, both on the street and at the track. With that in mind we`ve worked with Baer to tweak their most popular systems to give our clients that edge! Even with their markedly improved performance these systems retain OE type dirt and moisture seals, very good low temperature performance and quiet, clean operation. We`ve started with the extremely popular Pro+ 6 piston systems in 13″ and 14″. These exclusive SC&C kits include more aggressive, yet still very street able, Ferro-Carbon high torque / high temperature brake pads. These pads combine higher torque for more aggressive stopping power and an additional +200 deg. of heat resistance over most ceramic pads. They also provide excellent pedal feel and feedback. The exclusive slotted and zinc washed high thermal mass 2 piece rotors can process exceptional amounts of heat without warping or cracking. They are NOT cross drilled, which is really just for show anymore. We top them off with our exclusive SC&C logo calipers in your choice of standard colors (custom colors are additional) to help you stand out from the crowd. These kits bridge the performance gaps between Baer systems allowing, for example, a Pro+ system to perform nearly as well as a larger and more expensive Baer Extreme+ system or an Extreme+ to perform nearly as well as an Extreme+ Spec R race brake. SC&C StreetComp series brakes are available now for all popular Pro+ applications. Track 4 and Extreme+ systems are coming soon!

TCP Mustang Weld In Front Clip – Raising the bar.

The classic Mustang chassis presents some unique challenges in terms of updating its suspension. The factory configuration has issues with camber gain, roll center height and migration, and bump steer, to name a few. The traditional fix has been with new parts that bolt into the existing factory structures. We can make some pretty impressive gains with this type of system but we`re still limited in the scope of the designs, and we still have to deal with the big, intrusive shock towers crowding the engine bay. Several companies have tried to solve this by making modular cross member systems that use Mustang II, C6 Corvette or 1st Gen Camaro spindles, along with tubular arms, etc. Some of them are pretty advanced looking designs but they share the same basic flaw. They attach to the existing factory sheet metal lower “frame rails”. Anyone who has ever had to repair or replace these areas due to collision or rust damage knows just how thin and flimsy these structures are. That`s because in the factory configuration, it is the upper A arms that are weight bearing. They hold up the front end of the car, and transfer much of the braking and cornering loads through the shock towers and into the inner fender and cowl structures. The lower A arm mounts and rails have very little vertical loading. Their loading comes almost entirely from braking and cornering forces on a horizontal plane. Much of this load is shared by the forward strut rod mounts which tie into both the rails and the radiator support, and the remainder is transfer rearward, through the rails, into the beefy torque box structures under the car, directly beneath the cowl. When a new suspension cross member is attached only to the lower rails, all of the cornering and braking forces, and all of the car’s weight loading, are transferred to only a short length of these lightweight sheet metal lower rail structures. Does that sound like a good idea? No, I don`t think so either. But, now, there is an alternative.

The new TCP/Chassisworks weld in front clip is available in two different formats. Both replace the flimsy OE sheet metal rails with heavy wall, properly designed frame rails. Both tie these rails into the original load bearing inner fender wells along their entire length, and replace the bulky shock towers with a shock tower delete panel / shear plate. This configuration ensures that vertical loads (primarily weight) are still being carried by the same structures the original shock towers bolted to, just as Ford engineers intended. The base kit welds to the firewall bulkhead at the rear. The total interface surface is about 8”x2” so it has a lot of weld surface for strength and rigidity. That said, the second model is the one that really floats my boat. It uses integral frame rails that replace and/or slide snuggly within the thin factory sheet metal rails all the way back through the torque box structures and beyond, to the transmission cross member. These are not add ons or braces, they are integrated into the structure of the car so seamlessly that they look like they were always there. It is a very elegant design. Add the TCP gConnector system and you have a full frame chassis from the front bumper to the rear spring mounts. This adds a tremendous degree of much needed rigidity to the entire chassis. For those going all out, these long rails are also an excellent place to tie in a roll cage and rocker bars for even more rigidity, and of course, safety.

The new clip is a modular unit that accepts A arms, spindles and steering racks from Chassisworks huge menu of components. It can be done as a more budget friendly build, with uncoated steel A arms, non-adjustable SS Series coil overs, and a manual rack. Or maybe you would prefer a full show unit, with polished stainless steel arms, powder coated ductile iron spindles, polished stainless button allen head hardware, and QS1 single adjustable coil overs? Want something more hardcore? Configure it with gStreet adjustable tubular arms, fast ratio power rack, splined end adjustable rate sway bar, and QS2 double adjustable coil overs. It can also be configured as a drag race front end, if so desired.

Then there is the top dog, their ultimate pro touring front end, the gStreet. This package comes with clean sheet designed billet aluminum spindles, severe duty hub/bearing packs and ball joints, and wide track long travel A arms that yield a hugely improved scrub radius, and allow the use of the best modern wheel configurations. This package pushes the bounds of what we thought was possible on classic cars. It hurls the design, geometry and performance limits light years ahead, into contention with the best new performance cars. Pair it with the versatile Chassisworks Glink rear suspension system for the street, or with the TCP torque arm system and QS4 quad adjustable remote reservoir coil overs for hardcore road course use.

All the suspension in the world is pretty useless without an engine to make it move, luckily the Chassisworks / TCP weld in front clip can accommodate everything from old school Ford small blocks, to late model Modular/Coyote motors and even LS- series engines with equal ease. The elimination of the intrusive shock towers means that even a wide Mod motor will drop in the car like it was made for it. Likewise it will accept nearly any transmission, manual or automatic, old or new.

If you`re looking to bring your classic Mustang up to speed with modern performance cars, the Chassisworks / TCP weld in front clip is hard to beat.

SC&C Race Suspension Package AFX-R !!!

Most of the clients we speak to are building high performance street cars. They love the classic style of muscle cars but they want the handling, ride and drivability of a modern performance car like a 5 Series BMW, new SS Camaro or Mustang GT. So naturally our Touring, Touring Plus and AFX-Performance packages address this wide range of issues equally. Cars with these packages are both excellent street cars and also very capable on a track. But with the growth of muscle car friendly auto cross and track day events around the country we`re seeing more clients leaning toward the racing side of the spectrum. They`re willing to give up a some ride quality and street manners to finish 1st instead of 3rd. It`s for these more hardcore clients that we`ve released the SC&C Race Suspension Package AFX-R for A body and 1st Gen F body cars (Chevelle and Camaro).

Right off the bat you may notice we`ve gone from conventional touring springs and separate shocks to full on adjustable coil overs. This type of race application is where coil overs really shine. They allow the easy use of serious performance spring rates with ride height and dampening adjustment at our fingertips. These spherical bearing mount shocks give instant response and feed back, at the expense of a little more NVH (noise, vibration and harshness)on the street. Up front we`re using dedicated coil over lower A arms from Chassisworks. Their dropped, cross bolt lower mount gives the coil overs additional working room and a very strong mounting system. In the rear the Chassisworks mounts are mechanically adjustable to set ride height, in addition to the normal preload adjustment. Spring rates have been selected for best track performance on unimproved surfaces while still being usable,if you`re hard core,on the street. They are for winners, not whiners. 🙂 These packages come standard with Varishock QS1 single adjustable coil overs but realistically if you`re buying this type of package you really should opt for the QS2 double adjustable option. We`re working with Chassisworks/Varishock right now to make QS4 quad adjustable, remote reservoir shocks an option as well.

Both the A body and 1st Gen F body packages share the outstanding AFX tall forged aluminum spindles for geometry correction. The resulting geometry rivals some of the best new performance cars and exceeds that of many aftermarket sub frames and full tube frames. The spindles are very light but many times stronger than stock iron spindles. Wheel bearings are also upgraded from the tiny original bearings to 2015 C7 Corvette ZR1 format SKF bearing packs. Both packages use the excellent fully adjustable SPC tubular upper A arms, configured for the revised geometry.

For A body cars we`ve upped the size of the Hellwig front sway bar, the rear link mounted Hellwig bar is adjustable to match. The rear suspension uses Currie Currectrac trailing arms with greased spherical bushed joints to prevent kinematic binding. Similar joints for the rear axle are optional as is the Fays2 Watts Link.

1st Gen F cars get Chassisworks versatile Glink rear suspension system with a sway bar. It is available in both standard and mini tub versions. The new Chassisworks Torque Arm/Watts Link system will be available shortly.

In summary, if you plan to spend a lot of time in your car wearing a helmet and going around corners and European Touring sedan ride comfort isn`t high on your list of must haves, then the new SC&C Race Suspension Package AFX-R is made just for you!

The Truth About “One Manufacturer Kits”

I see comments all the time on internet forums telling folks to buy a whole suspension kit for their car from one retailer “so all the parts match and work together”. Well, they`re right in one respect, you certainly DO want all of your parts to work well together on the car, BUT that has nothing to do with the parts having matching stickers. I think some people may be confusing retailers with manufacturers.

It may surprise many of you to know, not a single company out there sells a whole car suspension package where they actually manufacture all of their components in-house. They are ALL a combination of products from different manufacturers that are being sold “private label”. The parts are simply labeled and packaged in boxes of that particular retailer.
In other words, when you buy a whole car package from one company, you may be getting tubular A arms made by a local (to them) fabricating shop, springs from a manufacturer in another state, shocks from a dedicated shock manufacturer, machined aluminum parts from an independent machine shop, sway bars from a major sway bar manufacturer in yet another state, and a steering box from ???? They may all work very well together, or they may not. Maybe each of the actual manufacturers is good, or maybe they`re not. You don`t know who they are, so how do you know? In short the idea of buying a whole package from one manufacturer is a myth.

At SC&C, our background comes from having a hot rod and race car shop for over 30 years. We`re not impressed or influenced by retail branding, stickers, or ad hype. We just don`t care about those things. We`ve seen companies that make one or two really good parts, while most of their other parts are “fair”, or worse. We’ve also seen companies who make mostly good parts, but they also make a few parts that are real garbage. No one company has the best solution for every problem. We take the time to make sure a part that we sell fits properly, works great, and just as importantly, works great with all the other parts we sell you for your specific car. And, we`re happy to tell you up front who actually manufactured them. We do a lot of consulting in this industry, and work with many manufacturers on product development and testing so we know the parts inside and out. We also take the time to answer any and all questions you may have. We call it our Free Suspension Counseling Service (610-381-6100). Do your research, ask questions, be an informed consumer and don`t be fooled by the “one manufacturer kits”.


We`ve been working on these on and off for about 10 years. Our G body HD chassis braces have been a popular upgrade for those cars for 15 years but the huge amount of variation in A body frames posed a real design challenge. Finally though, they`re here! We have separate braces for `64-`67 and `68-`72 cars. The point of all the HD braces is to add a large degree of chassis triangulation to a simple ladder chassis that has none. This improves torsional stiffness and helps prevent the ladder frame from parallelogram-ing under turning loads. The result is a tighter feeling car, with less creaks and rattles, more consistent body gaps and more responsive steering.

New Product Spotlight! NEW Varishock SS Factory Valved Shocks

The new Varishock SS factory valved, bolt in shocks are here! For many years muscle cars owners have had to choose between inadequate stock replacement type shocks, outdated vintage performance steel body shocks, or expensive and complex aluminum body adjustable racing shocks. Now there is another option.

Many months of street and performance testing have gone into this new series of fixed valving shocks designed to be the best Grand Touring shocks available for classic muscle cars. They are pre-valved from the factory with sophisticated digressive dampening curves tailored specifically for performance street driving, combining exceptional ride quality and handling. The unique ratio of compression and rebound dampening curves eliminate the floating, roll and dive issues of stock and vintage performance shocks while providing the controlled but never harsh ride of modern performance cars. What`s more, their fixed valving makes them much more affordable than their knob adjustable counterparts.

Ray Lloyd’s `69 Firebird at the USCA event at Laguna Seca – Ride Along !!

Thanks to Ray for sending us this great video! This way Ray`s very first time at a track event. He ran the car in street trim, no hardcore race settings. He finished 8th in the Autocross and 10th in the speed stop events. A darn good showing for a 1st time competitor! For the record the #003 “Your Name Here” Sponsored Pontiac is running an all iron 455 big block Pontiac (built in 1979!) not an all aluminum LS motor. It goes to show that an old school muscle car with some well selected bolt ons can be a force to be reckoned with! If you`d like to replicate Ray`s combination the list below will give you a head start.

1969 Pontiac Firebird
Purchased in 1976 (Ray`s First Car–High School)
Car Craft Cover Car Aug 1987 & Annual 1988
Started with a 1970 455 Engine 360 HP 520TQ
AAMCO built TH-400 Transmission circa 1976
12 Posi Bolt Rear Axle 3.42:1 Ratio
17 x 9 Year One Alloy Snowflake Wheels
Nitto NT05 Front Tires 255/40ZR17
Nitto NT555R Drag Radial Rear Tires
Hobrect 4 Point Roll Bar, Padded & Covered in Vinyl

And of course, Suspension by SC & C
SC&C StreetComp AFX package,
AFX Spindles
SPC Adjustable Control Arms with Nascar format Howe Ball Joints
SPC tubular lower A arms, SPC spring height adj. kit, with Howe Ball Joints
Varishocks QS1 Single Adjustable Shocks, front and rear
Baer 13″ GT/AFX Front Brake Kit
Chassisworks Solid Alum Body Mounts
Lee 670 Steering Gear , 12.7:1
Fays2 Watts Link with Delspheres
Hotchkis 2″ 600lb Lowering Coil Springs
Hotchkis 1 1/2″ Lowering Leaf Springs
Chassisworks Aluminum Subframe Mounts
Subframe Connectors
Trunk Mounted Battery

What`s the Deal with A arms?

We get a LOT of calls asking about various different A arms and which one is “best”. We also get a LOT of calls from people who bought A arms without doing their homework and now have some alignment, travel and/ or fitment issues. So how do you know which A arms are “best” for your application? Read on.

For starters let`s get one thing straight, the A arms are the cart, not the horse. A arms don`t define the suspension geometry, they only connect the pickup points that do. That means no big geometry improvements or performance gains are possible by simply changing the stock arms out for aftermarket ones. There`s a lot of misleading advertising to the contrary but that doesn`t make it so. That is not to say that A arms aren`t important. Just try and drive the car without them. 😉 I just want to make their purpose clear,for our applications they are a potential alignment aid but they are also part of the puzzle to fix geometry issues. Let me explain, if we do things to modify or correct the geometry on our cars it changes the locations of the critical pickup points of the suspension. As I mentioned before those points are connected to the chassis by the A arms. So if we make any meaningful changes in the geometry we must also change the A arms to match. This means changing the overall length, the offset fore/aft and the mounting angle of the ball joint plates to suit the new geometry, arcs of motion and travel. So without changing the A arms to new designs we really can`t correct the geometry.

Now it should be pretty easy to see that all A arms are NOT created equally and they are not at all interchangeable! I get a lot of calls from guys who bought a product or products to change the geometry and then bought “some tubular A arms” to use with them. Then they realize they can`t align the car, or the upper ball joints are almost out of travel already at ride height etc. etc. Bummer. Just because the arms look racy doesn`t mean they were designed to work with the new geometry that has been created. No matter what brand they are or how good the quality may be, if they weren`t designed with that geometry in mind they won`t fit or work properly. It`s like trying to run a flat tappet cam from a 1st Gen small block in an LS3. It`s a cam, it may even be a good high performance cam but it isn`t made to work with roller lifters or an LS block. There`s nothing wrong with the cam or the motor they just don`t work together.

Things get even more interesting with some of the super low cost “just as good as” A arms found in discount catalogs, auction sites and probably some bicycle flea makets.
Cue PT Barnum voice: Step right up ladies and gents, what we have here is a set of upper and lower tubular A arms for less than the normal cost of uppers alone. Hand crafted somewhere they won`t admit by “skilled craftsman” sitting in the dirt they`re just the thing to make your car handle like a dream and make your hair grow at the same time. Buy today and get a free bottle of Wonder Tonic!

You get the picture. C`mon, we`re all grown ups here right? We know there `s no such thing as a free lunch. If you pay for crap you will receive what you paid for. Most of the time these arms don`t fit properly, they are very poor quality, and cause frequent alignment issues. On top of that we have folks trying to use them with tall spindles or tall ball joints and thinking they`ll work just because they look “tooby”. Yeah, good luck with that. Now the guy has a big pile of cool looking parts that don`t work together and a car he can`t drive. Don`t be that guy.

To recap, A arms are necessary but they are not and cannot be a “magic bullet”. They compliment (or not) the suspension geometry of the car they do not define it. When doing suspension modifications it is very important to buy a cohesive package with geometry correction components and matching A arms together. Note that not all “packages” are matched components even when sold together. Hint: If a manufacturer is using the same A arms for geometry corrected packages and non geometry corrected packages, then one of them (usually the corrected one) is wrong. The same arms simply do not work well for both. If you`re putting your own “package” together do your suspension geometry mods first and then make sure you use A arms intended to be run with that particular modified geometry. Failure to do so will cause a lot of grief and likely cost much more money in the long run. Get parts that are all designed to work together and it`s a thing of beauty.

30 Years of SC&C !!!

It`s hard to believe it has been 30 years since we opened Savitske Automotive in Coopersburg, PA. back in 1984. Our backgrounds in things as eclectic as injected fuel funny car, SCCA GT1, hot rods and off road racing lead us to three decades of everything from engine swaps to chassis fabrication and development, building hot rods and many unique projects like Buckminster Fuller`s Dymaxion. We have evolved a lot over the years, getting more and more into new products and product development. We could never have guessed that today we would be working alongside some of the biggest and best companies in the suspension industry, developing new products, and helping to push the boundaries of what`s possible for muscle cars. We are looking forward to many more years of innovation, growth, and working with our clients to make their muscle cars the very best they can be.


SC&C is pleased to announce a new product:


These thin, but super tough reinforced rubber isolators are designed to cut down on NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) when using aluminum body mounts.

We have kits for 1st gen F bodies (Camaro/Firebird), A bodies (both `64-`67 and `68-`72), as well as G bodies.


Now Available for GM rear axle housings – A body and G body

Finally an upgrade for the upper axle side of the “GM Bind-o-matic” 4 link rear suspension! It`s become common knowledge in recent years that for these cars to ride and perform at their best the rear suspension has to operate with an absolute minimum of kinematic binding. Trailing arms equipped with spherical flex joints like those found here on our site go a long way toward reducing binding and allowing the suspension to articulate smoothly and precisely but until now the only way to incorporate the same technology on the upper housing mounts was to buy a whole Currie 9″ rear with Johnny Joints already installed. Now they`re available for any axle that accepts stock bushings!

This Johnny Joint kit takes arms like Currie`s Currectracs to the next level of precision while promoting a smooth,quiet street ride with excellent NVH isolation.
They can also be used to improve the performance of non flex joint trailing arms, reducing their binding (and squeaking) issues without having to buy new arms altogether.
Currie Johnny Joint Kit replaces the pressed-in upper control arm bushings with greasable Currie 2″ Johnny Joint rod ends. The Currie Johnny Joints feature 30 degrees of articulation, and are machined to be installed in the cast ears on the stock axle housings. Greasable bolts and an installation tool are included.

NEW SPC A arms with Delrin bushings and 4130 Chrome Moly cross shafts!

For years you guys have been asking for greasable Delrin bushings in SPC`s adjustable upper A arms. Now you`ve got `em! These next generation parts are now standard in all of our SC&C suspension packages that use SPC A arms.

The greased delrin bushings have outstanding performance, durability and unlike poly bushings don`t bind or squeak! Their high durometer means they have the performance of a bearing but they still do a great job of absorbing NVH / road noise. Their high degree of lubricity means they pivot super smooth even under very heavy loads. All SPC adjustable  A arms have also been upgraded to new 4130 chrome moly steel cross shafts that give the perfect blend of high strength and light weight. Their black electrodeposition coating is extremely durable and rust resistant, it`s good looking too! Designed using finite element analysis, premium materials and coatings and extensive testing these new components are truly cutting edge!

SC&C Suspension Solutions!

Performance Suspension is hot, but with the huge array of choices, how do you know what to buy?!  Which parts are bling, and which ones yield Real Performance? Maybe you plan to spend time at the drag strip, or do track time on road courses with Porsches and Corvettes, or maybe your`re building a new everyday driver. Certain suspension systems work better for some of those things than they do for the others, but which ones work best at what?…and why?

You have a lot of questions, and SC&C has the answers!  SC&C provides unbiased technical information to answer your questions, and we have the products to provide suspension solutions. Let SC&C be Your suspension solution!

SC&C has nearly 28 years experience installing, testing, and tuning, parts from a vast array of different manufacturers. We also work with racers worldwide, and we do design consulting work with many of today’s best suspension and brake parts manufacturers. That combination of hands on experience, and in-depth knowledge of the engineering behind the products, lets us help you make smart, well-informed choices. We assemble tailor made packages for you and your car, from the best parts in the business. Choose from our pre-selected, proven combinations, or call us at 610-346-8154, and take advantage of our free SUSPENSION COUNSELING SERVICE. We’ll put a custom combination together to fit your individual needs. Custom tailored parts, great prices, and unparalleled tech support, from the folks who wrote the book:  “How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle”.   That`s SC&C!

SPC lower A arms – Setting Ride Height

SPC Lower A Arm Ride Height Adjustment SPC Lower A arms have a modular lower spring seats that allow ride height adjustments to be made while using standard format springs. Various combinations of spacers and seats will yield different ride heights.

-All of the ride height numbers below are in reference to the lower A arms only. Other modifications such as lowering springs, drop spindles, tall lower ball joints etc. will also alter the ride height of the car and their effect is cumulative so be sure to take them into account when setting your desired ride height!

-To adjust ride height simply add or subtract spring pocket components from kits #94347 (5”OD) or #95333 (5 ½”OD). The thickness of each spacer changes the ride height roughly 2:1. (¼” thick spacer changes ride height ½”) Spacers can also be used in asymmetrical combination side to side to correct a car that doesn’t sit level.

-To get the baseline ride height of OE stock lower A arms, first remove the provided flat red urethane spring seat. Then install one flat steel spring shim and one helical aluminum spring seat.

**Component configurations for lowering the car are as follows.** These formats are handy for lowering an otherwise stock car or for accommodating tall drag springs.

-To lower the car roughly 2” use only the included flat red urethane spring seat.

-To lower the car roughly 1 ½” use the red urethane seat on top of one ¼” thick steel shim.

-To lower the car 1” use the red urethane spring seat on top of two (2) ¼” thick steel shims.

-To lower the car ½” switch to the helical aluminum spring seat.

**Component configurations for lifting the car are as follows.** These formats are primarily problem solvers for cars that are too low.

-To lift the car ½” use the aluminum helical seat with two (2) ¼” thick steel shims.

-To lift the car 1” use the helical aluminum seats with three (3) ¼” thick steel shims.

-Additional lift can be provided with SPC aluminum upper spring seat inserts up to 5/8” thickness. Formats using ¼” steel shims can also raise shocks that have been mounted on top of the A arms to allow for more droop travel or for access to rate adjustment knobs with #94348 (5”OD) or #95338 (5 ½”OD) ¼” plates.

Muscle car suspension, Dirt Simple Basics 1

It seems like everyone`s talking about performance suspension lately. There are plenty of cool looking parts and references about improved geometry and improved cornering etc. But what does it all mean? What`s improved geometry and why should you care? What`s wrong with the cars in the first place that anything needs to be “improved”? Well, it all comes down to a few basic principles and a little geometry and physics but it`s not exactly rocket science. With a good grasp of the basics it`s easy to tell what`s good, what`s bad and what to do about it.

The suspension dynamics of every car are dictated first by the pivoting points of the suspension also known as pickup points. These include the pivot axis of the ball joints, tie rod ends and all of the suspension bushings. Lines drawn through these pivot axis determine many of the factors that govern how the suspension behaves such as the roll center, the camber curves, anti dive, lateral roll center migration etc. These factors all interact and thankfully they tend to follow trends ie. when a few factors are bad, others tend to be bad, fix one and the others tend to get better too. This is the real foundation the rest of the car is built on. If the pickup points are in the right places (AND assuming the springs, shocks, tires etc. are selected correctly as well) the car will inspire confidence and really perform well. If the pickups are placed poorly (and if the springs, shocks etc. are off) the car will drive like an old shopping cart.

First let`s take a look at the front end and what goes on there. Most of our classic cars use a Short / Long Arm or SLA suspension. They use a short upper A arm, and a long lower A arm with ball joints joining them to the uprights, also known as knuckles or spindles (the spindle is technically the round shaft the wheel bearings fit onto). The pivot points of these components and their orientation to each other determines largely how well the front end will work. When the suspension moves up and down all of these parts will swing in their own arcs and interact with each other. For example if the lower A arms are fairly level and the upper A arms angle down hill toward the ball joints like most classic muscle cars do (especially true of early GM and Ford muscle cars) then as the suspension compresses (jounce or bump travel) the upper ball joints will follow the arc prescribed by the A arms and swing up and also out in that arc. The lower arm being much longer and relatively level swings in a milder arc with much less change and it`s ball joint moves more or less only vertically. That tilts the spindle out at the top and gives us positive (+) camber gain. In this case positive is a very bad thing because when the suspension compresses on the outboard side of the car in a turn the tire tries to lay over on it`s side wall! Tires aren`t meant to take load in that way so as a result the sidewalls distort and deflect badly. In extreme cases we`ve actually seen white lettered tires with the top edge of the letters beveled from contact with the road! This is NOT the fast way around a corner!

To add insult to injury the intersecting lines between the pivot points of this same suspension put the front roll center very low, usually a few inches below the ground (!). The roll center or RC is the geometric point about which the car tries to roll. Having the RC very low induces unwanted body roll. It does so in part because the front moment arm between the CG and RC becomes quite long. We`ll discuss this in detail in a future tech article.

Simply put, the above factors (and many more we haven`t touched on yet…) contribute to cars that generally go around corners like a cow sitting on a bar stool. The traditional “fix” has been to…well…not fix it at all and go straight or go slow. Of course if you wanted t go slow you wouldn`t be building a hot rod… To make matters worse we`ve all been spoiled by new cars. What seemed fine 40 years ago just doesn`t cut it today. Which brings us to the practice of modernizing and re-engineering the classic muscle car, some call it Pro-Touring or whatever, I just call it common sense. Some gains can be had by tuning the antiquated chassis with sway bars, springs and such, but it amounts to putting bondo over a rust hole or icing on a cake made with sawdust. The best way to go about it, the right way, is to fix the cars basic design issues and then tune it like a modern performance car. This method yields a car that generates great performance numbers but also drives and rides great too. It`s this line of reasoning that brought about our SC&C Street Comp suspension packages.

Street Comp-AFX El Camino “Rosie” Video